![]() ![]() My PSU is definitely underpowered, but the issue with the T.16000M *only* impacts the twist axis. It's an interesting thought but I don't think it's related, for a variety of reasons. And if your having power issues it could be that. Reason i ask is that you state a issue with axis and you mention a inadequate psu, the psu if its powering the flight stick could be why your getting axis issues as in the thread i linked, it says it needs a solid power draw. The only way you can mess up is if you lose a screw or get overzealous and yank the two stalk halves too far apart. Trust me, the above steps are dead simple. I have a power supply that I need to put into my computer so it stops shutting down randomly and I do not have the confidence level necessary to unplug things and remember where they go. I don't know how long it lasts, but since the whole process took me maybe 5 minutes, it's easily repeatable. Close up the stalk and put all the screws back. It doesn't require much, all you're really doing to getting rid of the dust that has collected there because Thrustmaster was dumb enough to orient the sensor upwards instead of downwards. Rub the cotton tip on the top of the sensor. ![]() Take a Q-tip and squirt/dip some isopropyl onto the cotton. It's a square plastic plate with a round recess in the top of it. You should now see the twist axis sensor, if you peek through the gap you've just made. This is the part that most videos "get wrong" - YOU DO NOT NEED TO COMPLETELY SEPARATE THE STALK HALVES. If you pull to much, either the stalk will break or all of the button plungers will fall out and disappear to wherever socks do after they've been through the dryer. You are not taking the thing apart, you're just revealing the interior. You only need to move them about 1/2 an inch at the bottom of the stalk, which reveals about 1/4 an inch about 2/3 of the way up. Carefully (but not too carefully) pull the two halves of the stalk apart. This is NOT the pin that goes through the trigger. Remove the screw behind the orange index trigger (between the trigger and the stalk). It's on the front side of the stalk, screwed in from the left. Remove the screw straight down from there, below where the left rubber bumper was. When you go to put it back together, you will need to screw this one in the tightest, because the rubber bumper has a piece sticking out that needs to fit into the recess without getting stopped by the screw.) Remove the screw in the top recess revealed behind the left rubber bumper. Remove the left rubber bumper (the thumb rest). Remove the single screw in the middle recess behind the right rubber bumper that you've just taken off. Remove the rubber "bumper" on the right side of the stalk. Once those screws are out, the handrest comes apart in two pieces. This involves two screws at the very bottom of the stalk, and one just above and between them. Tools required: 1x small Philips head screwdriver, 1x Q-Tip, 1x bottle of isopropyl alcohol (you need a tiny amount of alcohol for this, so if you don't have any, don't go and buy a jug of the stuff, unless you need it for other things) Here's the basic rundown to fix the jittery/noisy twist axis: Just use isopropyl alcohol, preferably a high concentration, so that it evaporates quickly.) (He suggests using WD-40 but that's a bad suggestion. However, I've discovered that the solution offered in the following video works just as well: Most fixes described online suggest dismantling the entire stalk, which involves some really fiddly work with button plungers and other tiny parts that fall off when you look at them cross-eyed. This makes it basically impossible to bind the twist axis to anything, since that axis will always be "noisy" even when the deadzone is really wide. There is a very common problem with the T.16000M joystick where the twist axis gets possessed and starts activating on its own. Helical spring (0.1” / 2.8 mm in diameter) inside the stick providing firm, linear and smooth tensionģ removable components allow each joystick to be perfectly tailored for left-handed or right-handed use.Not sure where else to put this, but I figured someone might find it useful. Magnets ensure friction-free action for razor-sharp precision that won’t decrease over time Precision levels 256 times greater than current systems (i.e. T.16000M FCS (Flight Control System) Exclusive precision: H.E.A.R.T HallEffect AccuRate Technology™! 3D (Hall Effect) magnetic sensors located on the stick:
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